The location may have changed, but there were all the elements that the front row would be familiar with. Across designs for men and women created by Westwood and her designer partner Andreas Kronthaler, the punk heritage was there in mohair pieces, rips and tears, and a DIY aesthetic that reworked a plastic knife into an earring.
Environmentalism and politics, which have seemed to dominate Westwood’s thoughts over the past decade or so, were also plain to see. The collection was titled Ecotricity. The show notes read: “What’s good for the planet is good for the economy/what’s bad for the planet is bad for the economy.” Strings worn as belts and handmade paper crowns felt like something that might have been worn by an off-grid community. Some models’ clothes also had patches with anti-climate change slogans.
Westwood’s non-fashion preoccupations aside, the brand in her name is now a global business, with a turnover of £33.8m in 2015. Sure, there were more edgy things, such as dresses for men and tight Lurex leggings, but the majority of the collection will be gratefully received by Westwood’s large and loyal fanbase. There was sharp tailoring, smart outerwear and reliably glamorous party dresses. Westwood understandably remains a red carpet favourite: the night before this show, the Game of Thrones actor Gwendoline Christie wore Westwood at the Golden Globes.
Photo: Vivienne Westwood catwalk show on Monday. Photograph: Neil Hall/Reuters