Its refreshing to read this article, as my proposal for my MA three years ago was to break down the outdated fashion system as it stands and offer an alternative model.
Change is afoot. Recent resignations, a spurt of announcements from designers that plan to challenge catwalk-show convention and a renewed focus on the consumer has put paid to the fact that 2016 will be a pivotal year for the fashion industry before it’s even begun – one of adaptation and (dare it be so indulgent to say) choice. Designers are quite rightly responding to the shift in the way that consumers are buying and they’re looking at how their business models respond to it – and it’s not confined to one city.
In New York, Thakoon’s decision to press reset on his current structure to achieve a “see-now, buy-now” model and Rebecca Minkoff’s announcement that her collection will be available immediately post show (something which Moschino – among others – has been effectively doing since 2014), come as the CFDA has employed BCG to explore the option of making NYFW a consumer event to financially harness the hype created by social media at a show. In London, Thomas Tait has revealed that he will be holding one-on-one appointments with press and buyers, rather than a runway extravaganza, and Tom Ford – a frequent name on the BFC’s roster – has said he’ll do the same, only in the Big Apple. In Paris, the growing veneration for young talent breaking with convention – like that of Vetements and Jacquemus – and communicating directly with fans – hello Olivier Rousteing – is invigorating and inviting for the next generation, while in Milan Gucci has confirmed that wonder boy Alessandro Michele’s first two collections won’t be marked down in the sales, because they are selling so well they don’t need to. One size has never fitted all – the industry should be applauded for experimenting with the notion now.
Full article here: http://lewisalexander.info/the-la-briefing/2016-the-year-of-choice/